Puerto Rico travel diary: Rincón, the surfing capital of the Caribbean

You’ll know you’ve arrived in Rincón when you pass the sun-grizzled gringos cruising west in their rusty 1972 Volkswagen Beetle with surfboards piled on the roof. Shoehorned in the island’s most remote corner, Rincón is Puerto Rico at its most unguarded, a place where the sunsets shimmer scarlet and you’re more likely to be called ‘dude’ than ‘ma'am.’ (Lonely Planet)

When you think of the Caribbean, surfing is not necessarily the first thing that pings to mind. Music, dancing, rum (oh, that rum punch) and scorching sunshine are my first thoughts which all add up to the kind of holiday I enjoy the most. As much as I find satisfaction in the luxurious - who wouldn't -, I absolutely love the dreamy, slow-moving vibe of a surf town. Rincón won me over in a heartbeat.

It is a good 2-hour drive from San Juan - a remote corner with lush waves, warm sand and stunning sunsets. And even though it was really surfing that made Rincón famous, this once sleepy town is now a major destination year-round, offering all kinds of activities that range from the cultural to the historical and adventurous.

Rincón has been known for having some of the best surfing in the Caribbean, so there is no shortage of top-grade beaches where you can surf like a pro or test your novice surfing skills.

The first ever surfing broadcast in 1968

Maria’s Beach is among the most popular beaches loved by surfers, especially during the winter months when its waves are at their peak. And it’s not just the beauty of this place that made me fall in love with it, but where the beach got its name from. The first-ever broadcast of a surfing competition took place here in 1968 when the beach was still called Rincón Point. During the competition Doña Maria Garcia, whose house was right on the beach, let people camp on her property, offered free coffee and toasts to surfers when they came out of the water. As the surfers got to know and like Maria, they started to refer to the beach as Maria’s. The name has stuck as a tribute to this woman who represented true Puerto Rican hospitality.

This beach is also commonly known as Domes Beach, thanks to the decommissioned nuclear reactor nearby. Another beach favored by surfers is Sandy Beach, just north of Domes.

The Beach House, Rincón

The Beach House is part of every chat with locals, every recommendation from humans and algorithms alike. It is up on the hill, on Road 413 which is officially named “The Road to Happiness”. Shoehorned by lush greenery and stunning sunsets, it is where surfers hang out after riding the waves. The Beach House Restaurant was inspired by the beauty and culture of Rincón with their clean, fresh, and organic menu with the daily catch in focus. All ingredients are sustainable and local; seafood comes fresh off fishing boats from the harbour and produce from the local markets of Rincón.

The town of beautiful sunsets

Rincón has been unofficially dubbed "the town of beautiful sunsets". Nestled along the West coast of Puerto Rico, Rincón boasts clear night skies, providing an excellent canvas for breathtaking waltzer of color. Each evening, as the sun dips low on the horizon, the sky glows with an explosion of red, orange, and gold hues.

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